Delhi vs. Bombay
Last weekend was with Smritika in Delhi for her bday. She has some awesome parents and a great group of friends. It was hot as shit. I mean real heat = low of 95 high of 115 (not feels like 115 but actually is 115).
Delhi and Bombay are India’s two largest cities and two of the biggest cities in the world. There is a definite rivalry between the two urban centers of India. Thought I could give you some perspective on the differences between Delhi & Bombay. Most of this is based on anecdotes from others. I have found what people say tend to be pretty consistent across the board.
Infrastructure & Space (sidewalks, streets, parks)
Winner? DELHI! Has big continuous sidewalks, wider roads, and the parks are spectacular. Stuff is cleaner. There are more garbage cans around and the garbage gets taken from the garbage cans. Bombay, even in the wealthiest areas sidewalks, streets, mini-parks are always a little grimey. Overflowing garbage cans lack basic daily attention. A fancy building in Mumbai where people pay outrageous rent will be in heavy need of a paint job, tuckpointing, etc.
Across the city there are ruins with old ass tombs and temples and other historical things. It would be like if in Humboldt park there were ancient ruins alongside the baseball and soccer fields. Just part of the landscape.
On our last day we spent hours meandering through the Lodi Gardens. All kind of tropical birds like parrots roaming around. Old guys in temples writing poetry and singing songs, people from all classes having picnics, playing cricket and football (soccer), uncles and aunties (old men & women) doing that fast walking thing and stretching, etc. Big beautiful trees, ancient ruins & temples that existed BC + BC…you know, cradle of civilization stuff.
Smritika and I (mostly I) but she got into it, being tourists and taking pics.
Crime and Safety
Winner…Bombay! No contest. North India (Delhi) has more of a machismo/patriarichal culture. Women feel less safe, there is more likely to be a bar fight, road rage incident in Delhi or other form of assault. It’s the strangest thing but Bombay, is a safe ass city. You often hear from women of why they love Bombay:
“I can walk home at 3am wearing anything I want and feel completely safe.”
In Bombay I have already been in 3 auto rickshaw fender benders. Traffic is insane and you would think it would lead to serious violence on the roads. But no, accidents happen, the guys (might) yell a couple things to each other but 5 seconds later they move on, no fights. Bombay crime comes more from the professional criminals like mafia or politicians. I am sure I have been scammed in Bombay but it feels rare. You ride in a taxi, 98% of the time they put the meter on, and give you the exact change back. In Bombay is everyone lives next to everyone. Delhi has more of the Chicago segregated vibe while in Bombay there might be a huge slum on the same block of million dollar condos. Below is a great quote by Gandhi that sums up much of how I feel re Bombay:
Simmering beneath the surface is some tensions between the Muslim and Hindu community. There have been some ugly violence in recent years and from what I understand has not been resolved.
Food
Delhi wins, no contest. The Mughlai food which varies from extremely mild to spicy, with all types of complicated combos of spices, hearty stuff, comfort food. Great veg and non-veg dishes. Here are some examples of dishes. When I eat with Smritika and her Punjabi (click on link) family, you always eat well! I learned the first time when I thought all the appetizers were the meal. I was stuffed and then the real food came out. Delicious!
Style
In Bombay people take casual/informal to the next level. Love that about Bombay. Jeans and T-shirt with sandals are just fine. Delhi on the other hand, people are fancy and flashy. Before Smritika’s party we had to go to the mall to pick some stuff up. Everyone is dressed up, nice fitting clothes, shoes, make up, product in the hair, etc.
Pollution
The air is thick, dusty and smoky in both places. Hope that changes. Supposively now it’s worse in Delhi. Here are pollution masks they now sell at pharmacy’s. Capitalism is so great at profiting from the problem it creates. Also, check out the pee safe.
3 Months In…
It’s officially been 3 months here in the quaint little town of Bombay/Mumbai, population of about 23 million (give or take a couple million depending on whom you ask). Cuz so much of this city is random as f*** this post will list some of the random things I see day to day.
Things to watch out for during Monsoon Season: Here you see Smritika innocently walking in the market under the blue tarps. Little does she know … Happily I captured this on video. Please watch.
Man Holes
Basically huge holes that the city takes months or years to fix. Makes Chicagoans who complain about our potholes sound like whiny *****. During Monsoon season there is always stories of people getting sucked into the holes.
Sex Education + Health Promotion:
Pic #1: Yup, that is a condom brand called “manforce.” Ads are sprinkled all over and this one is from the airport. Smritika wanted me to point out that the name is controversial and problematic for many people.
Pic #2: Is a huge wall in Mumbai. You see this in different spots across the city. The messages on the wall range from HIV awareness (featuring batman and the hulk), getting regular checkups at the doctor and mental health. So much of the social marketing I am seeing is random, not done with a target audience in mind, no coordination or branding across the city, and I’m unsure of the persuasion techniques they are using to change people’s behavior. I sound like a total snob right now, but from what I have seen this is an area that needs some improvements.
Pictures of men with serious faces: This has been a trend I have seen in other areas of India as well. Sometimes these are local politicians other times just other random stuff. Most of the time the pics are of men with a serious expression, although you can see a couple smiles. These pics are posted all over communities.
Cramped office, a lot of work getting done: What a random day looks like in my office. We have about 30 people in a small office. There are no assigned desks. People work on the floor, hallway, and in the “nap room.” It is a small room with a cot, that people can take a short 20 minute nap. Also notice people’s feet. No shoes. No socks.
When I get homesick: Just some random food we order to remind them of home (starbucks, pizza and a sad taco).
The Cow Gang outside my house: Continues to grow. They even put posts up to block them from the sidewalk but that didn’t deter them.
After 3 months I am seeing, learning, doing, hearing, feeling, smelling, touching, tasting, things that are still new to my 36 year old self. Down the line I will look back on this time and I’m guessing I will remember so many of the small details that back in Chicago might have taken for granted with the passage of time.
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