We are in the midst of the Holiday season in India. Here is my basic understanding:
Ganesh Holiday: Celebrated across India but especially Bombay (Maharastra). People celebrate lord Ganesh (the elephant) for 10 days.
Durga Puja: Celebrates the goddess Durga (lady with many arms and she will slay you) and is most popular in West Bengal. I think this one is for 4 days.
Dussehra: Mainly celebrated in Southern India. Commemorates the victory of the god Rama over the demon king Ravana.
And a big one…Diwali: The Hindu festival of lights. It is like their Chanukah. That is probably completely wrong but seems like there could be a connection.
Why so many holidays now?
Not sure. There are tons of holidays in India. So many regions, so many gods, so many ways of doing things. But I am guessing it is connected to this being fall and it being harvest time. I bet when spring comes along there will be a bunch of holidays as well.
Complicates shit
I work in 3 different cities with 200+ schools and they all celebrate holidays differently. So one school district might be off for 3 weeks in October. Another one in the same city might be off for a week and another one in a separate city might be off for 2 weeks in November. Every year the calendar changes. Holidays change. Schools vacation lengths change. Sometimes you don’t know for sure until 1-2 days before. Needless to say it has taught me a lot about expecting the unexpected, and it has kept me on my toes. Phew! Exhausting.
October in Bombay
It is end of the world hot & humid in Bombay these days. Just look at the highs each day and the 72% humidity = really damp and swamp assy. The monsoon season is over, the air is THICK and stinky. No wind. Everyone’s sinus infections are flaring up. If you don’t have respiratory issues, you start to develop something. This kind of weather can make you lethargic and a little irritable. But I’ve actually been pretty good…
Still walking in this heat, small things can set you off. Yesterday, I was walking to this Sri Lankan food spot. On a legit sidewalk. When this picture caught my attention.
In college, I took this incredible public health class. It was the class that made me want to do public health. One of my projects was to look at polio eradication. India was doing an impressive job and had nearly eradicated the disease. 15 years later here I am in the sweltering heat of Bombay and I see this sign. Pretty Cool! They did it! Actually it was done in 2014. As I am taking this photo, on the sidewalk, I hear: “beep beep.” Well it’s Bombay so you always hear beep beep. People beep at you for anything. There is actually the campaign “Horn Not Ok Please” to improve noise pollution. That is being countered with the “Horn Ok Please.” Traffic noise is the top source of noise pollution in Mumbai, with decibel levels as high as 110 decibels (loud as concert or a live rock band).
So I am just on the sidewalk. Taking this pic. Not blocking other walkers. I feel the heat from something on back of my leg. Keep hearing a horn next to me. I look back and these two dudes on a motorcycle are on my heels because they are trying to take a shortcut on the sidewalk. It’s the holidays and traffic is bad. It’s muggy. I’m irritated. I now make sure to block the sidewalk. I keep walking slowly. They are blaring their horn. We keep this going for a block. I finally turn left and they hop the curb to the street. Feeling frustrated with with all the liberties two and four wheel vehicles take and lack of pedestrian rights. Sidewalk ends and you end up weaving through traffic, holding your hand out to get cars to stop. Feeling emboldened, they are just inches away, sometimes you are touching the top of their hood or the auto rickshaw windshield. “the right of way” concept doesn’t really exist. You both have to get to a destination, and more often than not they will stop because hitting someone will be inconvenient. I made it to the restaurant safe and sound and the food was delicious!
I haven’t written in a little while and thought I would give a summary of the last month through pics and videos.
NEW APARTMENT!
We finally have a new place. You should visit and see it. Stop by anytime and you will have a room to stay. Next blog post I will write more about the process.
The final signing of documents happened an unused siderom in a government buiding. Stacks of dusty books lined the walls. The final process involved:
- Government of India getting my left thumb print (biometrics)
- Bribes
- Blue thumb stamping
- Signing my name in many different places
I think everything I signed was legally binding. We hopefully move in by October 26th.
South Bombay
In mid-September I had a week off of work and I did a staycation with the intent to “grow feelings for Bombay.” I mainly did some touristy and off the beaten path stuff in South Bombay. The oldest part of the city:
Drugs and Tea Tree Oil Toothpicks
Where I live, no one really tries to sell me something. It is a pretty residential area. But in South Bombay, a touristy area, everyone is trying to sell me something. Drugs, sex, a watch, a suit, etc.
A funny interaction I had with one of the many men that offered me drugs.
Guy: (Getting very close to me) Hash, cocaine, weed
Me: No, it’s illegal (I had already had 10 people come up to me for the same thing. was being cheeky)
Guy: Not in India.
Me: I laugh (stop and talk to him out of respect for his salesmanship).
Guy: Right here I won’t sell anything to you. Too many eyes. I will take you far away in my car. Give it to you there.
Me: (I never asked him or wanted to buy anything from him) That doesn’t sound like a good idea for me. This is how bad things happen.
Guy: (He doesn’t speak English well. Doesn’t get my sense of humor. He keeps trying to convince me). Don’t worry. Back of my car. Far away from here.
Me: No I am not interested it is illegal and going in your car is not a good idea. Here try one of these. (I had just gotten back from USA where I brought back my tea tree oil toothpicks. Was chewing on one. I offer him one to try).
Guy: No, I don’t want to try it.
Me: You are going to like the flavor. Just try it.
Guy: I have already tried it.
Me: No you haven’t. (I insist he tries it).
Guy: Puts it in his mouth. Shakes head. Asks for a couple more.
Me: I give him more toothpicks, and get in taxi.
Moral of the story: People in Bombay are nice but never get in the back of a strangers car in a big city, especially in the context of a drug deal.
South Bombay was interesting to explore. Here are some photos and videos:
Haj Ali Dargah: Famous Muslim Mosque on the sea
Great Juices and good greasy food. The mutton was my favorite.
Elephanta Caves: A UNESCO World Heritage Site and a collection of cave temples predominantly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. It’s about 10 Km from Bombay. Was super cool.
Riding the train
I will admit something. I have been intimidated about riding the train. Thousands of people crammed into the train cars, not knowing how to buy a ticket and which line to get in when buying the ticket, do I buy first or second class? Not knowing which train to get on, not knowing which train car you can enter, people pushing and scrapping for their space. Previously I had only taken the train with Smritika. What being on the train can look like
Nothing like traffic to make you get over it…
Still….Door to door from my house to South Bombay on the train is 45 minutes vs. what can be up to 2 hours in an uber. About a quarter of a way to South Bombay. My air conditioned Uber, I am charging my phone. I realize we have not moved from the same spot in 20 minutes. Don’t think it is getting better. No clue where I am. The only thing I know is we are near a train station. I get out of uber. Weave my way through traffic. Feels good to be moving. Walking amongst thousands of people who are going/leaving somewhere. A nice guy shows me the train station.
Me to teller: Second class train ticket
Teller: First class?
Me: Second class. & where do I get train to Churchgate?
Teller: Points to a platform. 10 rupees (14 cents).
I get on the train!!! So simple. Arrived at my destination in 15 minutes. What an exhilarating feeling!
Felt like this woman (who was celebrating one of the holidays on the train):
In Bombay the train system is something that always runs! They have different kind of train cars (first class, second class & gender specific cars) Second class/woman only train car.
Old Chinatown
One of my favorite areas to explore is the “old Chinatown.” Really nothing Chinese about it now. It’s a super chill and walkable area of Bombay. Surprisingly quiet, tree lined streets with big beautiful sidewalks and old buildings. Great to walk around. Felt like I was in the Bombay of 60 years ago. There used to be a decent sized Chinese population in Bombay. I (think) in the 1950’s and 1960’s the Chinese community was forced out. From my understanding China & India have beef! Don’t think that is changing anytime soon.
The Chinese Cemetery
Last remaining Chinese Temple. You blink, it’s gone.
Random stuff….
People Celebrating Holidays in the streets…
Right in front of my house. I live on a “residential side street.” I told Smritika it sounds like “if you are happy and you know it, clap your hands…” She told me it is an old Bengali song. Maybe the English colonizers stole this beat. They owe someone copyright money!
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